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When assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.